Friday, November 13, 2009

The Thursday Stoke! (better late than never)

It's Friday and I'm writing the Thursday Stoke from a bakery in Rincon, Puerto Rico, about the "stoke" that happened Wednesday! So much for being prompt about things, but nothing is prompt when you're on island time!

This is the first chance I've had to get to Wi-Fi and really only because the swell died down a bit so I'm going to explore the south west coast today before returning home tomorrow just in time to catch a swell hitting the east coast of Florida!

For the Thursday Stoke on Friday that is for Wednesday I'd just like to thank all the Veterans that fight for our Freedom and allow me to enjoy epic surfing days while traveling. So at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th Month of this year I surfed this wave at "Wilderness" in honor of the Veterans! Go U.S. Military!


More photos and a full recap to follow in a few days! Everyone have a killer weekend! Peace out from Puerto Rico!

3 comments:

  1. this is a professional quality picture man !!!

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  2. The little summary you gave in the comments on my page was a little unfair... I really want to hear the full story! :-)

    Thanks for the encouragement, though. Much needed and much appreciated.

    ReplyDelete