Saturday, June 20, 2009

3 sessions, 6 hours and a crowd oh my!

We've had a little "bump" of a swell the past three days and if you're a surfer within say 100 miles from Ponce/NSB inlet you probably know about it.

Thursday was amazing. Head high waves (on me) with super long lines and beautiful clear emerald green water. Friday morning was only slightly smaller with no wind and glass. At 8 a.m. I'm one of the first cars on the beach as they open the gates. By 9 a.m. the entire state of Florida is in the water and being "over" the crowd I paddle in and go to work.

After talking with one of my surfer buddies I formulate a plan to arrive at the Dunes Park at 7 a.m. Saturday (well before the beach is open to cars) and walk the boardwalk over the dunes to the inlet and avoid or beat most of the inevitable weekend crowd. What I do NOT know is apparently the park is open much earlier than 7 a.m. as the parking lot was almost full when we arrived. At first sight of the break it obvious that my brilliant idea is NOT by any means original. There's already 200 surfers in the water at 7 a.m. and as we paddle out I see EVERYONE that drove down the beach with me on Friday. Great minds think alike. "Oh well, take what you're dealt and make the best of it," I say to myself!

Three sessions and six hours later I'm spent! Being calorie starved, I call it a day and leave the beach in search of food. I realized several things today.

First, I'm more confident that I've ever been surfing in crowds. My confidence level in surfing is at an all time high (now if only I could achieve that with women). I look around and just "believe" that I'm better than half the guys out there. Whether that's true or not doesn't matter because as long as you're not cocky about it, the added confidence it gives you shows in your demeanor and that definitely scores you more waves as other surfers "give them up to you" and the more waves you surf the better you'll get in both physical ability and experience. I feel more confident in my wave selection and positioning than I've ever known. This feels to me like I'm busting down a major door and ready for the next level whatever that may be...

Second, props to the dude out there today that was wearing white colored zinc oxide all over his face (even his eyelids) and sporting the long dreads and full facial beard. You look like an aborigine man (although you are white) and I know Halloween is four months away, but that was pimp and I'm sure it "scared" a few beginner surfers out of your way.

Third, two thumbs down to the 300+ pound guy with "man boobs" wearing a effing speedo and surfing a massive florescent orange longboard. Not cool at all man. Nobody really wants to see your stuff when you look like that... perhaps a dress would cover you up better and at least it would be funny.

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