Hurricane Irene SCORE!

On Friday morning we decided to head south of Cape Canaveral in hopes of catching the conditions just right. As we arrived and spot checked it at Cherie Down Park it was going off and then I realized we were about to score really big!
For the first session we hit it at Jetty Park and it was overhead and super clean. I got two ligament barrels and pretty much lost count of the nose riding mayhem I was creating on my 9'0" Walden Magic. The amazing thing is it really wasn't that crowded.
By noon it was fading away at Jetty Park. I guess it was too sheltered at that point. We headed south to the more exposed Cocoa Beach Pier only to find a few hundred guys in the water. The waves looked enticing and I was game, but one of our friends (a beginner) was intimidated so we headed back to north to Cherie Down again and paddled out to score big again!
This time it was bigger. The drops were faster and waves more powerful. I was in freaking heaven! But, my arms were getting more and more burnt out. By the end of the second session my arms felt like my legs usually feel after running a marathon. We all headed back north with smiles on our faces. Irene we love you!

Here's some pictures from Friday....











On Saturday it was New Smyrna Beach and the north coast of Florida's turn. The wind was now offshore up this way and the ocean was clean and ready for some rippin'.
We met at a predetermined spot where we know of a good sandbar just after dawn. The waves were the biggest we've seen yet. The wind was slightly less than the day before and that was good because it means easy entry. The paddle out was the hardest yet and I had to take several sets on the head, but made it out in about 10 minutes. The outside break was the furthest out of all our Irene sessions; about 3/4 of a mile. The wave faces were around the 8 feet range. It was so EPIC that I surfed for 3 1/2 hours without coming in once. That's a long time for no food or water. I took about 100 waves during that time and they were so clean that I probably could haven't gotten by without having a leash. Super fun and what a stoke! I surfed myself sick... literally. After the session I had to get in a car and crank the A/C to high while drinking three Gatorades and then going to Subway to down a foot long meatball sub (it's what I was craving). Then I went home to pick up Jenny (she went to Gainesville to do her long run with Team Hot Legs) and I laid down on the couch for a half hour before feeling better.
We went back to the beach to visit friends. I didn't paddle back out as I was stoked and satisfied. A thunderstorm rolled through and sent all the Orlando kooks fleeing the beach and hopefully going home. After it was peaceful. Jenny and I went on a couple mile walk. It was a good ending to a top 10 swell of my lifetime so far!

Here are a few pics from Saturday in New Smyrna Beach.





On Sunday we went down to the inlet only to find waist high sets rolling in with offshore winds. This was hardly exciting after the previous four days. We surfed for about 30 minutes and call it quits. It felt like a recovery paddle... like a recovery run, but for my arms.
Can't wait for the next swell!

After an evening run Jenny and I decided to check out the surf at Flagler Avenue. It was crazy with people and news vans and the parking lot was chaos.
The ocean is still a big washing machine. A few isolated thunderstorms passed by, but then it cleared up and for now it's just windy.
Looks like the best bet for tomorrow will be to go south of the Cape. Saturday will be New Smyrna Beach's day. I'll try and update with some pictures from Jetty Park or Cocoa tomorrow.

So now we wait...

Drove over to the beach at dawn this morning.
The surf is a lot more disorganized than last night and the wind is fully onshore. Hurricane Irene is starting to show herself. We're only under tropical storm watch here in Florida so we'll probably only get 25mph to 45mph winds.
The news people were on the beach trying their hardest to sensationalize their stories. A few young and dumb surfers were preparing to paddle out. A few traveling surfers were in their cars or on the beach sleeping. I remember those days when I was in high school and our gang would all paddle out during the worst and most gnarly part of the storm. It's exciting and seems adventurous when you're 18-years-old. To an experienced surfer or an older surfer it seems flat out retarded. I'm saving my arms for tomorrow and Saturday when the storm is to the north and the Coriolis effect causes the winds to pull offshore and the surf cleans up. That will be our window. Timing is everything as it'll blow the swell down quickly. Hitting it at the right time is key. Stay tuned for more updates!

Hello Irene!

Surfed the first incoming long period sets from Hurricane Irene this evening at the Sunglow Pier in South Daytona Beach with a few friends. Waves were a little overhead on me (I'm 6'7") and had a slight chop to them as the wind was onshore, but light. It was a super fun time, but a little test for paddling. Definitely the biggest waves I've surfed this year. I rode the 9'0" Walden Magic. Tomorrow it looks like it'll be washed out with heavy onshore wind. After she passes to the north and heads to North Carolina (stay safe my Outer Banks friends) the winds are forecast to go offshore here Friday and Saturday. That will be the window of opportunity. I'll try and post up some pictures tomorrow and of course when it cleans up a bit. This could be the swell of the year??? Time will tell.

A little random humor...

Last weekend I sold my kayak and ping pong table on Craigslist. The amazing thing is both items sold in less than an hour of making the post. The other day I decided to do a little experiment with Craigslist to see just how far I can take it and still get someone to buy something.

The subject: My old TV that is collecting dust and taking up space on the back porch.

The experiment: Can it be "sold" with a bit of salesmanship and humor?

The control: The TV is outdated and worthless.

This is how the posting (click the link to see the actual Craigslist post) reads:


"Oh man, do you like the look of an old school color television??? We're talking 2003 here. Yup, before 1080p...z...g or omega alpha high definition HDMI this or that! This retro television set is box-like and heavy with a good size 27-inch screen. No theater view here. We're talking full on square-shaped screen! Yeah, that's right. It's also manufactured by Symphonic (Model WF2703). Never head of that brand? It's okay, I haven't either. It was purchased from the quantity over quality-minded people of Wal-Mart during one of those Blue Light Specials. Wait, is that's a K-Mart thing? Nevermind. Getting back on track. This television was made in Malaysia probably by some poor Asian dude working for $2 per day, but I'll tell you what, it works and it works well! Hook up the cable and tune in some Price is Right or Judge Judy. Bust out the popcorn and throw on the John Wayne Westerns. Fire up that old Atari and hit the Pac-Man. Features include 27" Stereo Sound System (built in of course), Video L-Audio-R on the front and back! And of course Video in cable jack... and don't forget the remote control so your butt can stay comfortably on the couch. It takes only two AA batteries and has lots of buttons!"

So far the only calls I've received have been people asking if I've sold it out of curiosity. The answer.... no. One lady even asked if I'd take her number and call her if someone buys it because she has one she wants to sell too. My answer? No!